FORTRIC US Plug DC 12V 1.5A Switching Power Supply Adapter with Cable Cord for AC 100-240V Black Transformer

Why we love it?

Model: ZKPS1215-03A Operating Temperature:0 degree to +50 degree

Some comments about this we saw on the web:

* /u/checkitoutmyfriend on /r/BurningMan I tried the DoCooler pumps on my bin version. They didn’t pump enough for it but should be OK a bucket sized cooler. Or use two on your bin. Or use this one. I have two of these on my Bin cooler but its bigger than the one you posted.

The HF pump is 7Vdc. Its better to keep everything 12Vdc as its much more common.

3) ?? are you talking about the lid? The white weather strip in the pic, installed under the lid, is not needed. They are sealing a box with holes in the walls?? We don’t care if a little air sneaks around the lid lip It still has to go through the media.

Now the grey weather strip on the water header is required to seal against the lid, or center area of the lid. We want all the air to go through the media. Be sure the lid does not buckle when snapped in place and great a gap(s).

I would get a good battery, deep cycle if you can swing it. A set of jumper cables can charge it from the car, or a small solar panel and controller to float charge it as you use it. Depending on solar completely requires some bucks up front to do right. I like batts. As far as sizing a panel, I don’t know. Never used any. My Trailer has two RV, Deep Cycle, AGM matt batteries. I could run the cooler for a a couple of weeks before they would drop.

On a side note, never use your car battery for camping activities. Short of phone/ipad charging and the like. The reason is if everything fails, you can still start up the car and go home. With a dead/damaged battery its more difficult.

See on reddit

——* /u/checkitoutmyfriend on /r/BurningMan That design will work. Things to look out for.

Be sure you have good ‘wetting’ of the media. Dry spots are a fail. The pad needs to be completely soaked. I have used the pump in that article. You need two for a cooler of this size. Or one of these. Keep the tubing length short as possible. No loops and minimal bends or at least long sweeping bends.
Grab some waterproof wirenuts for your electrical connections. They come in different sizes.
The seal on the bin/lid is not needed as any air leaking between the bin and lid has not hit the pads yet so we don’t care. It’s like having another ‘heart’ hole in the bin.
The seal on top of the PVC tube header needs to be sealed. Any leakage here bypasses the media defeating what we are trying to do. Also be sure the media is sealed up against the bin wall on this design. Can’t have any leakage there either.

Personally I would go with marine batt with smaller solar charge panel. Opposed to a large panel to power everything. Cost is about the same but you get the best of both worlds. Plenty of power to run it and other stuff & a panel to keep the batt topped off. Not as concerned about dust on the panels, clouds, etc. that reduce panel output. Which may be a problem if a large panel is all you have to power things.

See on reddit